Places guide · Tenerife's first tourist destination
Before the south became the island's tourist area, Puerto de la Cruz had already been welcoming visitors since the 19th century. Today it keeps that spa-town character, with seawater pools designed by César Manrique and a seafaring old quarter that has not lost its scale.
Why it is worth the visit
Puerto de la Cruz began receiving European visitors, above all British, from the late 19th century, drawn by its mild climate and its health-tourism tradition. For decades it was the island's leading tourist destination, until the development of the south, with more guaranteed hours of sun, drew away much of that demand.
Far from being left as a relic, Puerto de la Cruz reinvented its identity: in 1977 the artist César Manrique designed Lago Martiánez, a complex of seawater pools built directly on the volcanic coast, without sand, which imaginatively solved the lack of a conventional beach. That same spirit can be felt today in its old town, its Plaza del Charco and its Botanical Garden.
What to see
The centre is covered on foot, with the seafront as the guiding thread.
The seawater pool complex designed by César Manrique on the volcanic coast. Its geometry of curves and landscaped islands is, alongside the Tenerife Auditorium, one of the island's most recognisable pieces of design.
A black volcanic sand beach, also shaped by Manrique, with gardens and a promenade. The open-beach option for those who prefer sand to pools.
The town's historic square, in the shade of century-old laurels and a step from the old fishing port. Puerto de la Cruz's social meeting point for generations.
How to organise it
From a day at the pools to a cultural visit centred on the old town.
Before you drive
The old town and the seafront have narrow streets and heavy foot traffic.
The centre of Puerto de la Cruz, especially around Plaza del Charco and Lago Martiánez, has narrow streets and a lot of foot traffic. There are several public car parks on the edge of the old town; the most comfortable option is to leave the car there and walk around the centre.
Practical information
In the north of the island, next to La Orotava and well connected to the rest of the north.
About 35 minutes from Santa Cruz along the northern motorway, or 10 minutes from La Orotava.
Several public car parks a short distance from the centre and the seafront.
Lago Martiánez is best enjoyed in the morning; the old town comes alive at sunset.
The square and the streets of the seafaring quarter have fresh-fish and Canarian restaurants, with terraces under century-old laurels.
Enough to combine the pools or the beach with the old town; allow more if you include Loro Parque.
On the outskirts of the town, it combines penguins, orcas and a large collection of tropical birds; book your ticket in advance if you travel with children.
La Orotava's stately old town is the natural complement to the day.
Half an hour away, to extend the route through the north of the island.
Before you set off
Frequently asked questions
A complex of seawater pools designed by César Manrique in 1977, built directly on Puerto de la Cruz's volcanic coast. It is one of the island's most recognisable pieces of architecture and landscaping.
The black sand is volcanic, typical of the north of Tenerife. Playa Jardín is the municipality's best-known black-sand beach.
A full day lets you combine the pools or the beach with the old town. If you also want Loro Parque, count on a separate day.
La Orotava is only ten minutes away. Icod de los Vinos and Garachico, along the north, are half an hour away.
Plaza del Charco and the streets of the seafaring quarter have fresh-fish and Canarian restaurants, many with a terrace under century-old laurels.
A full visit usually takes between half a day and a whole day, depending on how many shows you want to see. It is best to book your ticket in advance in high season.
Next stop
Puerto de la Cruz shows that imperfect geography is no problem: with imagination, even a coast without a beach can become the island's most celebrated design.
Photos of Lago Martiánez and Playa Jardín: Clemenspool, Wikimedia Commons (Public domain) · Photo of Plaza del Charco: El fosilmaníaco, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0)
